The Essential Guide for Better Product Photography

A crash course on product photography and the use of simple studio equipment. As eBay Traders, we all know how good looking photographs can make or break a listing. We also know how dark, blurry and out of focus photos can make our listings look unprofessional and tacky. Hopefully this guide will help you make your listings look better.Here's a quick checklist of equipment that I use and would recommend if you're serious about getting the best out of your images- A Camera (it doesn't have to be a top end Digital SLR with a Macro Lens but you will need settings like "exposure compensation", "white balance" and if possible a good "macro" mode and "manual exposure"- A Tripod and Cable Release (camera shake is the cause of blurred photos - a tripod will allow you to take sharp photos each and every time. The cable release prevents any shake from pressing the shutter button. The self-timer function will also work)- A Light Tent/Softbox (these diffuse light and provide a clean background to photograph against, most people haven't seen them before but they are a staple of product photographs. They areavailable on eBay )- Lights (we recommend using Daylight Corrected lighting to avoid orange/green/blue colour casts - they areavailable on eBay )

Depression Glass

Depression glass is so named because it was made during the depression years. In very austere times when jobs and money were hard to come by, depression glass offered a small spark of luxury in dark times.Green, amber, pink and blue are the main colours and come in clear or frosted glass. Gorgeous vases, bowls, dressing table sets, juicers, mixing bowl, plates and cups and saucers, to name just a few were produced in depression glass. You can collect a design pattern or just collect any design you like. Displayed in a cabinet they look fantastic.As many years has passed since produced in the 1920's to 1940's these everyday items may be worse for wear.What should a buyer look for?ensure the item is not damaged run your finger around the edges to find any chipslook for any repairsHandy tip:Take a photograph of a piece which has the pattern you are searching for and take it with you to antique fairs and markets. Then you'll know for sure if you have the right one and maybe you can ask them to be on the look out for that special piece.

SELLING ISN'T EASY

When I joined Ebay to become a seller, i thought it was going to make me some money - ok - alot of money, and i would totally enjoy the experience. Well, here i am 5 months later, I'm still waiting to earn my first thousand and it has been everything but fun, in fact I'm sure i have sprouted a few grey hairs lately! My first sale went well and earned me $6.00 clear profit - wow - but I misjudged the post amount and so it ended up costing me $3.25 of my profit. I learned the hard way, but I was determined to stay honest and charge the right amount which I do, and i recycle packing to keep costs down for my buyers and me too. But i think sometimes I'm too honest and it ends up coming from my pocket. I'm still waiting to earn my first thousand!Selling isn't easy, I would call it hard. Above all things about selling is the people you have to contend with, while most are lovely, there are those which you could happily strangle, if you could get your hands on them. If you are a seller, then you will understand where I am coming from.The people that frenzy out on heavy bidding, and you are sitting there watching this activity thinking yeah, my first thousand, but when it comes down to the crunch. this person, this frantic specimen of bidding gone mad, won't come forward with the cash. You remind him, you send him mild threats of negative feedback, you send him last warnings, but to no bloody avail. he has just cost you a valid sale, he has just cost you a final valuation fee and you are now out of pocket, and don't turn to Ebay for help, I'm still waiting to hear anything from them about my valuation fee refund. And if that doesn't hurt enough, then this frantic specimen leaves feedback - negative bloody feedback - so you are left looking like an artful dodger as well.Another type is the scammer - he buys, he pays and demands insurance, and all of this is fine. So you insure, pack the item well and send it off. then you get his first email demanding to know where his item is, 'it's been 3 days since i paid for it, it should be here by now'- but sir you will have to take that up with Aust Post, not me.... then.... the next email ' my item has arrived and it's broken and i want a refund' - but sir, it is not my fault, it was good when it left my hands.....I demand a refund, and i will leave negative feedback as well....- but Sir you have insurance, claim on that, this really is not my problem....and negative feedback was left and you are left feeling like a right twat because you have delivered this scammer a broken item and won't give him a refund and it's all your fault.......and I'm still waiting to make my first thousand!!!!!!!!Selling isn't easy, it's not all fun but it's worth the effort. I have learnt that you need the patience of an angel to deal with people, honesty is also a good policy and above all, it's not a good idea to sell yourself short, there are always going to people out there waiting to stab you in the back, more importantly, most people are geniune, are good people and bend to help you if they can see you are genuine. Selling is a challenge.So, I hear you ask, why am I still selling - I'll tell you why - i'm waiting to make my first thousand.and I do love the people contact - good and bad..........cheers.

Postage Stamps And Postal History Of Australia

Stamps Australia OnlineThis is an overview of the postage stamps and postal history of Australia. The various colonies that joined to form the Commonwealth of Australia in 1901 had long operated their own postal systems; see the articles on the systems of New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Tasmania, Victoria, and Western Australia for the respective details. At federation the Commonwealth was granted the power to operate a central postal system through Section 51(v) of the Australian Constitution. Although unification of systems was expected to occur quickly, and a federal postmaster general was appointed, the process was delayed for several years; the stamps of each colony were not recognized by other colonies until 1910, and postal rates only became uniform throughout Australia on 1 May 1911. The Postmaster-General's department eventually became Australia Post in the 1970s - see that article for more details of the organizational aspects of Australia's postal system.Although one-penny postcards and lettercards appeared in 1911, for most students of the area, Australian philately proper begins in early 1913 with the Kangaroo and Map series of stamps, featuring a kangaroo standing on a map of Australia, and inscribed "AUSTRALIA POSTAGE". The first issue of the series consisted of 15 values ranging from a half penny to two pounds. The watermark was the first of several variations on the "A surmounted by a crown" theme, in this case the "wide crown and wide A". Kangaroo and Map stamps were reprinted several times: in 1915 with first the "wide crown and narrow A" watermark, then the "narrow crown and narrow A"; in 1929 with the "multiple small crown and A" watermark, and higher values in two colors; in 1932 with the "multiple small crown and C of A" watermark. In December 1945 the series ended with a redrawn two-shilling stamp. Most of the Kangaroo and Map stamps are readily available today, although values of 5 shillings and up are expensive.1913 also saw the first profile of King George V, a one-penny value in carmine. A cleaner version of the design was issued in 1914, and various denominations appeared from time to time, along with changes of watermark, as late as 1932. A 6-penny stamp depicting a kookaburra appeared in 1914 as well. The Commonwealth's first commemorative stamp was issued on 9 May 1927 to mark the opening of Parliament House in Canberra. Commemmoratives began appearing regularly in the 1930s, typically as sets of two to four of the same design, with the low value common and the higher values issued in much smaller numbers. The accession of George VI in 1937 was the occasion for a new definitive series of 14 designs, featuring both portraits of the new King and Queen, as well as Australia's unique animals, including the kangaroo, kookaburra, koala, platypus, and the commercially important Merino sheep. In 1938 the King and Queen portraits on the low values were re-engraved for improved appearance, and in 1942 they were superseded by new designs, along with a 5 1/2p value depicting an emu.New definitives from 1950 on showed an older George and Elizabeth, then gave way in 1953 to a profile of Elizabeth II. 1953 also saw the curious "PRODUCE FOOD!" stamps, depicting scenes from the butter, wheat, and beef industries, and issued to encourage food production. A 1956 issue for the Olympic Games being held in Melbourne included early examples of stamps printed in full color, and in 1957 Australia's first Christmas stamp began an annual tradition. The definitive series of 1959 used various portraits of the Queen for its low values, and a variety of plants and animals for the higher ones. Fluorescent paper began to be used in the 1960s. A series of 1963 included birds and well-engraved portraits of early explorers and their ships for values going up to two pounds. The introduction of decimal currency necessitated a new series of definitives in 1966. Values from 1c to 5c used the same portrait of the Queen, in different colors, while higher values included sea life in addition to the 1963 designs redrawn with decimal values; for instance, the 4-shilling Abel Tasman of 1963 became a 40c stamp of 1966. Stamp-issuing policy was relatively restrained in the 1970s, but in the 1980s and 1990s, considerable numbers of stamps began to appear, and many miniature sheets were overprinted for local stamp shows.Old Australian Postboxes found at the Australian National Museum

Purchasing Second-Hand PC Games Online

This guide is dealing with thepurchase of second-hand PC Games online. It covers some of the main points to be aware as there are pitfalls but when you know about them it can lead to better buying of second-hand PC Games online.Activation CodesA major thing to be aware of when purchasing second-hand PC Games, is that some second-hand PC Games cannot be practically resold due to them having activation codes. The majority of these games are online multiplayer games for example; Battlefield 2, Everquest II, World of Warcraft etc. These types of games are totally or mostly played online and the game providers use activation codes to control things like piracy and account creations.Technically the seller can pass on the account details to the purchaser, but if it is such a game you are purchasing then make sure they do, otherwise the game maybe worthless. Also find out, if its a Massive Multiplayer Online game like World of Warcraft what the current subscriptions are to play as this is an additional cost to pay on top of the game. Since the game is second-hand (unless never activated) any free time will have likely expired and a subscription is needed to play.Activation codes are also known as CD/DVD keys and Serial Numbers.PiracyPiracy is a real issue when purchasing any PC Game. To avoid potential pirates, always make sure the game is pictured with the contents of the box/case displayed. There should be CD/DVDs, a manual (for budget games though like platinum series the manual is in electronic form on the disk to save cost) and the original packaging. CD/DVDs are easily copied even to the detail of a hard to pick disk screen-print. Ensuring the other items are included minimises the risk of purchasing pirated goods as the manual and packaging reproduction would likely make the game sale unprofitable for them unless they are trying to pass it off at a new game price.The another reason to make sure you dont purchase pirated games, is again the activation code, many games even non online ones use this code to enable the purchaser of a game to access extended features. Of these features the most important is upgrades and patches to the game. Pirated games will often use cracks, programs that overcome anti-piracy measures in the game. However these programs are often reliant on a specific version of the game and will likely fail if the game is patched or upgraded. Meaning a purchaser of a pirated game that uses anti-piracy measures like a CD/DVD check will never be able to upgrade the game from its base version supplied on the CDs, unless they themselves track down and use another crack, which is illegal.Pirated games can come with activation codes however you will likely find them useless when trying to play online or for other game features.Game RequirementsThe advertised game should list the minimum and recommended game requirements to run the game as supplied by the game maker. These are listed on the game packaging. It is your responsibility to ensurethat youcan run the game and a seller is not at fault if theyve supplied the correct game requirements. You can double check the requirements by visiting the website of the game where it should be listed.Your PC should at least meet the recommended requirements of the game, as the minimum specifications, while they will often run the game it will be a sub par experience. Video Cards and RAM (your computers memory) are often the main areas of underperformance in most new games.Although uncommon for sale now old games that ran on DOS or a game makers variant of DOS will often not work at all or as intended on operating systems like Windows 2000 and XP. Technically minded people can get them to work sometimes but even then problems can arise. Also alot of newer games list the only supported operating system as Windows XP, if you have Windows 2000 there is a good chance it will run but it is not guaranteed or supported by the game maker.Check that the game is an expansion or not. Expansions often require a copy of the original game to use, for example: Diablo II Lords of Destruction, Warcraft III Frozen Throne, Everquest expansionsetc. An expansion that requires the original game is of no use by itself. The requirements of the game should note whether the original game is needed or not, as sometimes expansions or combination of expansions can include it as well.Many current games are coming out on DVD, so if you dont have a DVD-ROM in your PC make sure the game you are buying is in CD format.SummaryDont be put off by the suggestions I have made, as purchasing second-hand PC Games is still easy to do. However purchasers and sellers alike should know some of the major points regarding the trade of second-hand PC Games.

Plastic Playing Cards All you need to know about them

Good playing cards make a huge difference in any type of card playing game. There are several types of playing cards, the most popular are plastic and plastic coated with the main difference being the quality and durability of the cards. Plastic coated cards are paper cards coated in plastic and will not last as long as a 100% plastic card.You can expect plastic coated cards to be good for a few tournaments and you can expect plastic cards to be good for many tournaments.The type of playing cards you use will have a great impact on your card game. There's nothing worse than playing poker, bridge, or whatever with bad cards on a bad playing surface. You should probably use one or two decks of plastic playing cards, rather than paper (plastic coated) cards. Plastic cards will last for months or years compared to lasting only one or two tournaments for paper cards.Paper (plastic coated) playing cards will bend, crease, rip, chip and tear. They will only be good for one tournament or less. Paper cards mark easily and don't bend back into shape. They become dirty and sticky and don't slide as well as they did when they were new. They cannot be washed when they do become sticky. The colours are bright but fade as the cards wear out. If you spill a drink on a paper card, you might as well throw away the deck. They can be easily smudged or marked with a fingernail. It is easy to crease or bend a corner.Plastic (100%)playing cards are much more durable and long-lasting than paper cards. They will not crease, rip, or tear as easily as a coated plastic card. Plastic cards will last longer, shuffle better, and slide across the table better. Plastic cards may be washed using a damp cloth when they begin to get dirty and stick together. Plastic cards can get wet and soiled and are easy to clean.Plastic cards are easier to handle and shuffle. They bend back into shape better than a paper card and are much harder to mark or smudge than a paper card. They are more expensive than paper cards but are worth the extra money in the long run.Plastic cards slide very easily on just about any playing surface. They feel strange to shuffle at first but once you start using them, you'll never want to go back to a paper card. Plastic cards may smell when you first open a new deck. The smell will disappear with use.In the long run, plastic playing cards will probably cost you less than paper playing cards. If you are going to use use paper cards, plan on buying lots of decks. On the other hand, plastic playing cards will last dozens of tournaments, with a little cleaning needed now and then. When the cards get a little sticky, simply wipe them clean with a damp towel and let them dry. This will save you money in the long run.As with any type of card various brands will have differing type of plastic.The best cards and best value for money I have ever used are the COPAG range of plastic playing cards.Card SizePlaying cards are 3.5" in height. Poker (Wide) size cards are 2.5" (6.35cm) wide and Bridge size cards are 2.25" (5.72cm) wide. The relevant card sizes are show in the pictures below. Card IndexRegular, Jumbo or Magnum Index refers to the size of the numbers and pips (suits) on the card. Jumbo (Large) index cards have larger, easier-to-read numbers and suits than Regular (Standard) index cards. Jumbo Index cards are good to use on large oval tables because it is much easier to see the board cards (Flop, Turn and River) from the end seats. On the other hand, for inexperience players Jumbo index cards are worse as hole cards (down cards) because you have to expose more of your card to see what it is.Magnum index cards have even larger numbers and pips than Large index cards. Thething about Magnum Index cards is that they have huge numbers and pips that can be seen from across the table but they also have smaller numbers and pips in the corners of the card, allowing you to simply flip up a corner of your down-card to view it. Below are designs showing the difference between regular, jumbo and magnum index. REGULAR JUMBO MAGNUMRemember that it may be difficult for the players at the ends of the table to see the board cards (Flop, Turn, and River) especially if the overhead lighting is inadequate or the player's eyes are aged. You might consider using Jumbo index cards to make it easier to see the board cards, much depends on your players and your lighting. You could, alternatively, use regular index cards and ask the dealer to announce the cards as they are shown.PipsMost playing cards have numbers and pips located on the top left and bottom right corners of the card. Some decks, have numbers and pips on all four corners of the card. These are so-called "left-handed cards" and they make it easier to bend up any corner of your down card to view it. Most card decks have only two pips.StorageStore your cards in a consistently cool and dry environment. Do not leave your playing cards in a hot car or exposed to direct sunlight.Looking After Plastic Playing CardsYour cards will last longer if you keep them clean.To wash your cards, use cold water, mild neutral soap and a soft cloth. Do not use hot water. Clean only a few cards at a time. Rub lightly on both sides of the card and rinse quickly.Dry thoroughly at once using a clean, soft cloth. Spread your washed cards on a table and allow time to dry each side. Avoid direct sunshine or artificial heating. Occasionally wipe your plastic cards with a damp cloth and let dry thoroughly. Never use detergent or alkaline soap. Never put cards away damp, either from washing or perspiration. Never store cards where they will be exposed to sunshine or any other source of heat.Play on a clean felt table. Playing on poor quality or dirty surfaces will result in scratches which will allow dirt to accumulate on the cards.One of the best places to buy quality 100% plastic playing cards is right here on ebay.

What are Bombonieres?

Bomboniereare small gifts or tokens given by the bride and groom theirguests as a thank you for sharing their special day.The word bomboniereis Italian in origin but also know in other parts of the world as favors. Traditionally, bomboniere consist of 5 white sugar coated almonds encased ina bag of tulle and completed with ribbon and an artificial flower. Each almondhas a meaning which symbolise the following symbolise Health, Happiness,Wealth, Fertility and Longevity. Nowadays there is a whole range of styles to choose from including organzabags, plastic holder, various designs in boxes, candles, sops, bath bombs andmuch much more. There are also a wide variety of filling for your bomboniere ifyou would prefer not to use the sugar coated almonds. Chocolate hearts, boiledsweets, jelly bean, mini chocolate rocks to name a few. There are many colour, decorations and additions that you can add to yourbomboniere these days. Tulle circles come in a variety of colours and there isalso an endless list of ribbons ranging from stain, satin edge and organzathrough to the personalised printed ribbon with your names which is quitepopular to wrap around boxes. Then there is the bomboniere pull bow ribbon,very easy and results in a beautiful shiny bow. Traditionally they is one bomboniere placed at each table setting, in recentyears they have also been added to the centrepiece on the tables allowingguests to help themselves. You can even attach a small tag to thebomboniere with your guests names to reduce the need for place cards.You do not need to spend a lot to have a truly wonderful bomboniere for yourguest. You can create a traditional 5 almond bomboniere for under $1. We hope this has shed some light on the issue of bomboniere for those whoare not to sure. If you still need help or suggestions please do not hesitateto contact us at Australian Bridal

Real

Ipods are on everyones minds, and there alot of them to choose from, but do you only one decsion to get a real one or a fake one.For example, here are things to check:Nonstandard headphone jacksNo dock connectorThe serial number 6U545TK2TJTNo included USB cableSlightly longer screen than the real nanoPlay/Pause symbol on the middle buttonNo repeat option on the on/off switchNo battery or status lightFirstly ill start with the Ipod Shufflesthese are the cheapest of all ipods, and can be copyed easily.Nano'sLeft

How to use eyelets in scrapbooking

A lot of people are scared to use eyelets in scrapbooking. There is nothing to be scared of and they are very easy to use.The first thing you need to do is buy an eyelet setting tool. These can vary in price from about $10 to about $40. Obviously, you need to consider how often you will use the tool as to how much to spend on it but as is usually the case, the more you spend, the more features and benefits you will get.A tool usually consists of two parts - the hole tool and the setting tool. In the basic version, you use a hammer with your tool to set your eyelet. It is therefore quite noisy and not something you want to do in the middle of the night!!! The more expensive tools, generally don't use a hammer and are therefore more quiet. My favourite is the "Silent Setter" from Provocraft. It is easy to use and very compact for taking to crops or classes.Most tools give you a choice of two sizes - a basic 1/8" size (most eyelets are this size) or a 3/16 size (for larger eyelets - they holes are much larger on these).To set an eyelet, the first thing you need to do is to decide where you want to put it.You then need to use the hole tool to make a hole in the right place through however many pieces of paper you need it to go through (obviously the more layers, the more pressure you need to apply to your tool). It is very easy. Just hold the tool in the correct place, and either apply pressure with the hand (with the fancier tools) or hit it with the hammer (with the cheaper version).The next step is to place your eyelet in the hole and turn the whole lot over keeping the eyelet in place. Now, you need to place your setting tool in the back of the eyelet and either apply firm pressure (with the fancier tool) or hit it with the hammer (with the cheaper version).Wella, your eyelet should be in place.One tip I will give - a green cutting mat is a great help when setting eyelets as it protect your bench or table when making the whole and then it protects the front of the eyelet when you are setting it in place.Eyelets are very versatile.You can use them to attach two pieces of paper together - say to attach your photo mount to your page - you could use one in each corner.They can be used as an embellishment - the spots on say a ladybug or a dress.They can be used to thread fibres or ribbon through.They can be used to create moveable joints in say a teddy bear.They can be purely decorative or serve a useful purpose.Fancy eyelets look great as part of your title or set on small squares and placed on your page as an embellishment.Plain 1/8" eyelets look great used to thread fibres through or to add a lace to your page or just as a finishing touch on a photo mount or cardstock square.There are 100's of uses for eyelets. Just give it a go. They can just help give a great finish to that page that just needs that extra something!!!Give it a go!! No scrapbooker should be without them.Just enter "eyelets" in the top right hand corner of your page and hit search. You will find ahuge variety of eyelets listed on Ebay.

Aynsley China - buyers and sellers guide

Founded in 1775, and still in production, Aynsley China is an ideal target for collectors because of its high quality and low incidence of crazing and chipping. However, there is limited information on design identificationand ageing, so this guide provides much of the information I have been able to accumulate over years of collecting and research.The only dedicated reference on Aynsley China is a Shire Publishing book by Frank Ashworth, named "Aynsley China" which is usually available on eBay as a "buy it now" item from sellers in the UK, or can be ordered online from Shirebooks. However, thereare still a lot of questions not answered by the book.What is this design called?Many Aynsley patterns do not have names, but are generally known by a number. If there is a name, often only the large pieces have the name included in the backstamp, but sometimes no pieceswill have the name added. Usually, there will be a design number - generally hand-written near the backstamp. Often there will be a letter added after the number (eg 8013A). You will generally find these letters correspond with the use for the item, such as A for afternoon tea, B for breakfast, C for coffee, D for dinner, etc. Not very scientific, but I'm led to believe that's what the letters are for.The quickest (and it's free!) method I have found for finding pattern names is to look on the website of Replacements Ltd, a US-based reseller. They catalogue a huge range of patterns and have names added to many. Click on the "China" tab, then on "Aynsley

Packaging options as a seller

This guide is for you if you intend to sell on eBay Australia, or arealready a seller but would like to learn additional tips when packagingand shipping.So, what are my PACKAGING options?Almost any item you sell is best packaged with bubble wrap. Wrapping with bubble wrap ensures that your item is as safe as possible when in the postman's hands (remember, they don't know if it's fragile or not!). For items such as clothing, you can wrap them up with coloured tissue paper. Imagine how happy your buyer will be when they receive their package all gift-wrapped neatly!Another tip is to try and make your item as flat as possible. The PostOffice can throw packages on top of each other, so the more streamlineyour package is, the less likely it will have knocks from every angle.For example if you're sending 2 shoe boxes, it can be better to packagethem side-by-side inside the bubble wrap, than on top of each other. Be sure to tape it all up securely with taping supplies. This ensures the items don't move in their packaging during the journey.Lastly, it's always nice to write a short note thanking your buyer fortheir purchase, and requesting for their feedback if they are happywith the item.

Buying a Cycling Jersey

If you're a cyclist, you will know the importance of having the right type of clothing. Whether you are a serious competitive cyclist or just like to cycle for fun and fitness, the right type of clothing can help improve your comfort levels on the bike,help make you more visible to motoristsand maybe even your performance ! (Plus you will also look very cool !)Cycle jerseys are produced world wide so take extra care when choosing your size, we all know that sizes vary between the US, Europe and Australia. If unsure, ask the seller to measure the jersey. Buying a second hand jersey can sometimes mean a great bargain, just ensure that you have the correct size and all of the zips are working, they can sometimes sieze up over time.

Selecting the correct step down

Transformers can be found in just about every type of electrical appliance. They simply "step down" the voltage that is applied to them. Many types are available so it can be confusing to select the correct one. In this guide I will explain how to select a transformer of correct rating for your appliance. These transformers operate at 240v which is lethal. Many vendors on ebay sell transformers that are ready to use out of the box. If you are unsure, contact the seller and enquire if there is any wiring required. If so it will be a simple job for your local electrician.If you purchase electrical equipment from overseas you may require a step down transformer. A step down transformer will for example convert 240v to 110v (Australian, to Japanese), or 240v to 12v. Every transformer has a rating, which is its safe operational level. If you exceed this level the transfomer will overheat and may blow a fuse or worse start a fire. Transfomers will always heat up to some extent while running... this is normal. To select the correct transformer you first need to know what your load is. A load can be measured in watts or VA, which is Volt Amps. Gernerally VA and watts are the same thing because Watts = Volts x Amps or VA. All mains powered equipment will have a sticker on it usually near the power cable showing its load rating. So we need to select a transformer with a rating slightly higher.We want our transformer rating to be higher than our load rating. This will ensure a happy transformer.

Fake B W filters how to tell them from the real deal.

STOP PRESS:We have been informed that the facitilty producing fake / replica filters has been closed. At the request of the large Asian sellers of genuine product who claim business has been affected by this guide we have therefore removed it in good faith.I intend to reinstall a modified version of it asap.Still as always buyer beware and vigilant!Purchase from your local distributor and get a minimum of 5 year warranty or with Mainline Photo Australia get an EXTENDED Lifetime damage warranty as well!Thanks for readingMainlinephoto.

Wireless Router Guide

Going Wireless?Having a wireless connection around your home can be a great convenience for households with multiple computers. If you have an existing network you can remove all the unsightly cableslying around your house with a central wireless network.If you have a laptop with built-in wireless or a laptop wireless card, you can be accessing the Internet or your home network from around your house. The same can also apply to any desktop computers with either a USB wireless adapteror a wireless PCI card.Wireless RoutersWireless routerscan connect all your devices together. Some routers are standalone devices that require a separate modem; others are combined withbroadband modemsand plug directly in to your ADSL connection. These also usually come packaged with firewalls.However, there are pitfalls to avoid. To truly gain the benefits of wireless networking it is recommended that you do your homework and research your own personal requirements. This includes networking guideson eBay as well as other review sites around the Internet. Like most technology, wireless devices are constantly being improved upon and updated.Some TipsWireless RangeEnsure you try to centre your wireless router within your home. If your router also functions as a wireless modem, it will require connection to your external phone line. Try to ensure the antennas are vertical and if needed look into a wireless repeater.CompatibilityForemost is the compatibility with multiple devices. Currently, the common wireless connections are 802.11b and 802.11g networks. Ensure your hardware is compatible with the same connection as your other devices. Additionally, using the one wireless manufacturer may simplify your network.Setting It UpEnsure you read the details provided by the manufacturer. Most routers these days provide a simple interface with which to configure the router settings. However, you will still need to know your ISP and network settings.Lock It DownOnce connected to the Internet, securing your network should be a priority. At the least, you should change the router manufacturers login and password from their default settings and install a firewall and virus scanner on the connected PCs.Choose a ManufacturerPopular wireless router manufacturers are BelkinD-LinkLinksysNetgearSome of their models include the following Belkin 802.11g Wireless Network Access Point F5D7130auBelkin 802.11g Wireless DSL/Cable Gateway Router F5D7230au4Belkin 802.11g Wireless Ethernet Adapter F5D7330auD-Link DSL-G604T AirPlusG Wireless ADSL/ADSL2/2 Modem RouterD-Link DI-614 Wireless Broadband Router NetworkD-Link DWL-G700AP 802.11g Wireless Access Point DK6Linksys WAP54G Wireless-G Access PointLinksys WAG54GP2 Wireless-G ADSL Gateway with 2 Phone PortsLinksys WRT54G Wireless-G Broadband RouterNetgear WGR614 Cable/DSL Wireless Router 54 Mbps/2.4 GHzNetgear DG834G 54 Mbps Wireless ADSL Firewall RouterNetgear WPN824 RangeMax Wireless Router

Choosing a Laser Level

Choosing a LaserThe purpose of this document is to set out some considerations, which hopefully may help when selecting a laser for your requirements. There are hundreds of lasers on the market and some are very much alike and different. There are many things to consider. Some not to important and some very important. So lets look at the most obvious first. Rotating and non-rotating lasers. Rotating lasers emit a collimated beam of laser light as a spot varying in dia from around 3 mm to 15 mm. 360 degree reception of the rotating beam is achieved by a rotating penta prism similar to a lighthouse in operation. This feature allows the laser beam power to be concentrated in a very small area and enables greater range than a 360 degree fixed beam laser which utilizes a conical prism to split the beam into a 360 degree plane of laser light. For this reason the laser beam power is greatly reduced as it spread out over the job sight and much lower operating ranges are achieved. If you are considering operations of more than 100 mts, your selection should be rotating. 360 degree fixed beam lasers work well under these distances and have the advantage of fewer moving parts. Laser construction has progressed enormously recently and rotating laser now have less and less moving parts therefore this is less and less a consideration, although some manufactures persist in producing complicated instruments. Machine compatible. You should consider whether you may now or sometime later require controlling a machine laser system for example a dozer or excavator with your laser. If this may be the case then your selection should be a rotating laser. 99% percent of machine laser receivers are designed to operate with a rotating laser as the internal circuitry is designed to detect a pulsating laser source. If you choose rotating you also have the advantage of operating your laser with machine systems from other manufacturers (e.g. A contractor). Rotating lasers also vary in the rotation speed anywhere from 100 to 1400 rpm the most common being 600 rpm. Although it is sometimes possible to operate a machine system from a laser with 150-rpm rotation speed, some lag will be experienced so stick with 600 or more. Visible beam or infrared (non visible) do you need to see the beam? There are many situations were the ability to see the laser beam is an advantage if not a necessity. For example, a pipe laser were the beam is focus on a target and visualized. Pipe lasers are generally very powerful and easily visualized outdoors. Another example is the interior laser. Although not essential it is very convenient if you can see the laser beam. But some visible beam lasers have very poor beams to visualize outdoors and therefore unless specifically required for interior it doesn't matter.Visible beam diodes have now become popular with manufacturers so expect to see less and less infrared lasers. Some interior lasers are sold without a hand held receiver so given there poor operation in bright light you may require to purchase a hand held receiver for outside operation and this can be a significant expense when purchased separately, so check what you are getting. Remote controlled. Generally remote control features come with interior lasers and make the job much easier. For example when doing ceiling work you dont need to climb up to the laser to make adjustments to grade, scan or other features. In general construction this is less important but does have advantages. You should check to see what functions are available with the remote feature for that laser as the features offered vary between manufacturers. For example some offer grade adjustment and some dont. You should look at the work you intend to do and see if the remote control has features you would use. Lets say you are setting up a line of posts. You have set up the laser in the vertical mode over your first reference point where the first post will be and you now walk to the reference point where the last post will be. You detect the laser beam and find some adjustment to the alignment is required if you have a remote with that feature you can simply make the required adjustments. If not you may require a second person or you may have to walk back and forth making adjustments by trial and error. Fully automatic - compensated - manual. All these term refer to how the laser operates and what you need to do to set it up and start working. The most basic manual lasers have a diode that is basically rigidly mounted to the frame of the laser and have level vials that you adjust to create a level beam. This type of operation is dependent on two things. The calibration of the beam to the level vials, your ability to determine the bubble in the centre of the vial. They can be very inaccurate and do not compensate for any movement of the instrument if knocked or movement created by temperature changes. They are generally manufactured by want to be laser companies so forget these pieces of junk. Compensated lasers have an internal compensator that overcomes the problems associated with the manual versions but also have level vials that the operator has to adjust to bring the level of the laser into the range that can be compensated. The operator sets the unit onto the tripod and adjusts the foot screws to roughly level the instrument. The compensator, then takes care of any small errors in the level of the instrument. If the unit is knocked or moves the laser will stop operation until the set up is checked alerting the operator. Fully automatic lasers are just that fully automatic you put the laser on the tripod providing the tripod is roughly level push the button and the unit self levels and operation begins. Usually these lasers will simply re-level if moved or knocked but some have an elevation alert that alerts the operator if there as been any movement in his set up. There are some that offer automatic in the horizontal plane but only manual in the vertical plane. Accuracy.Dont get to hung up over this specification it really is only significant over large distances as seen in agricultural operation or large construction jobs. For the average builder or concreter 10, 15 even 20 arc seconds is fine and refers to a worst case scenario. Have a look for sure but dont make your decision on just a couple of arc seconds. But if you are hung up, lets have a quick look at the difference between 10 and 15 arc seconds over 30 mts. Here is the formula to convert arc second into millimeters for. 10 arc sec over 30 Mts. 10 arc sec divided by 207.47 multiplied by 30 Mts. = 1.44mm15 arc sec over 30 Mts. 15 arc sec divided by 207.47 multiplied by 30 Mts. = 2.16mmSo as you can see we have a difference of .72 mmSome times spec sheets give these specs in elevation error over a distance and dont list the arc second values at all so here is the formula basically the reverse of the above.Error divided by the distance and multiplied by 207.47. Lets do the above examples backwards.1.44mm error over 30mts1.44mm divided by 30mts and multiplied by 207.47 = 9.958 arc seconds2.16mm error over 30 Mts.2.16mm divided by 30 Mts. and multiplied by 207.47 = 14.93 arc secondsSometimes you will see instruments with specs like 6 mm in 30 Mts. (Or inch in 100 feet) thats about the worst I have seen and that was plus or minus. When you convert this out it is a possible total error of 83 arc seconds. So dont be fooled. Need more info e-mail kent@swiftdsl.com.auKENT FULLERLASER AND MACHINE CONTROL AUST37 KIMBARRA CL KOTARA NSW. 2289 Phone 0419551173

Art Deco - style for a new era

The Term Art Deco is applied to a particular approach to design which was popular in the 1920s and 1930s. There was an emphasis on clean spare lines, distinct angles and the use of clear colours, often pastels or bright secondary colours. The design approach is found in architecture, furniture, fabrics, pottery and glassware as well as in painting and sculpture. The style developed as a dramatic change from the elaborate and often over-decorated Victorian mode. It was a time in which Europeans believed that the old regime- the way of life which had not much altered for centuries- had been destroyed by the Great War, and the survivors of that disaster were looking for a distinctive presentation of a "brave new world" ( Huxley).These three different pieces illustrate some of the art deco approach. There is a playfulness which is in contrast to the highly decorated Victorian pieces.Art Deco items usually will have clean crisp lines, slim figures and often a spirit of whimsy.Clarice Cliff's Bizarre workshop potteryis generallya significant example of Art Deco in objects, although some of her designs, such as the Harvest series do not fit the general rules. Some of Shorter and Sons works also show the art deco approach.

Fencing in Australia

IntroductionSo you've seen sword fights in movies, from Star Wars to The Princess Bride orZorroand you've wondered about starting fencing, but think it might be difficult?Well, it's probably a lot easier than you think!First off, fencing is safe. When you start you'll be sore, unless you are already fit and used to exercise. You'll also suffer some bruising, until your classmates learn how to fence properly.Apart from that, you should never suffer an injury.One day of paintball should see you suffering more bruises than the first 6 months of fencing.Secondly, it's fun. It's one of the few activities that exercises your body and your mind at the same time.It's true when they say fencing is like physical chess.Only the moves aren't on a board, you have to perform them with your body and your sword.Having said that, you don't need to be fit when you start, and it's entirely up to you to what level you take it.As long as you enjoy yourself, there's no particular need to reach for the Olympics.International fencing is regulated by the FIE, or the Federation Internationale d'Escrime,w ww.fie.ch, which is based in France.Seeing as the French don't like anyone else, especially the English, they don't have an English version of their website, but you can get a full translation of the rules, as well as other cool stuff, from the website of the British Fencing Association at w ww.britishfencing.comA Short Short HistoryYou're probably aware that modern sport fencing is the descendant of European sword art as practised in times past, way back when swords were actually used as weapons, both in war and for self defence.Whilst this is no longer the case in many places in the world, fencing remains a fun and invigorating way to train your body and test your mind against those of other human beings.It's not the purpose of this guide to introduce you to a history of fencing.Suffice to say that while modern sport fencing shares many things with the age-old arts, including the way you train, the goals are different and so the way you fence will be different too.You're not fighting for your life, just for fun andpoints (and hey,possibly a medal or two).The sport of fencing has more in common with fencing training than fencing itself, even when you're competing.Otherwise, competitions would include hanging from chandeliers and using chairs as shields ;-)For a good, but brief, introduction to the history, check the Usenet Fencing FAQ at w ww.faqs.org/faqs/sports/fencing-faqbut for more comprehensive info you should check your local library or a bookstore.Competing and ScoringAbout typically consists of two opponents fencing to 5 touches.If you touch your opponent with your sword, you score a point.If they touch you first, they score a point. The first to 5 points wins, and if no one has scored 5 touches by 3 minutes, whoever is ahead at the end wins. Draws are decided by sudden death.In a typical competition, entrants will be split into pools and will have to fence everyone in their pool, then will be ranked on their win/loss ratio and points for/against. Ranked entrants will then enter an elimination round.Eliminator boutsare fenced to 15 points, with 3 sets of 3 minutes, seperated by1 minute rest periods, if necessary.In training, scoring is typically done by a referee and opponents will use their steam weapons.This means their weapons are non-electric.A touch is scored if the ref sees it, or if the opponent feels it and admits it (which fencers are encouraged to do). Electric scoring is usually done in competitions, and involves using electric weapons which are connected by cable to scoring boxes.A ref is still involved to interpret phrases (a fancy fencing term for a single set of exchanges leading to a stop in play) and to record the score.When fencing, opponents move back and forth along a strip or piste.No great degree of lateral movement is allowed, as there's not much point to this "in real life", it just wastes time and allows your opponent to spin to face you much faster than you'd be able to circle them.The Weapons!There are three weapons in modern sports fencing. They are the foil, epee and sabre.Blades consist of a pommel (the very back), a hilt (the handle you hold), a guard (the bell-shaped thing protecting your fist) and the blade.The blade itself is pliable, and will bend normally under pressure.As such you can thrust at someone with force and not pierce them.Eventually, all blades will become brittle with use, probably rusty, and will one day break.A good blade should last you at least a year, if you use it frequently.Poor blades might break within a few months.All blades these days aredesigned suchthat if you break them - and you will - they form a flat break.If they broke during a thrust and the break was jagged, it would increase the possibility of piercing someone.Electric foils and epees have a little button on the end which depresses to register a hit when you touch someone.Electric sabres do not have this button, as any part of the blade can score points.The FoilThis is variously described as descended from the epee training sword or the European small sword, but regardless, this is traditionally the weapon most people begin with.If you're sure which weapon you want to learn, then by all means begin with that weapon, there's nothing wrong with that.But if you're not, then the foil is the logical starting point, because it shares more in common with the epee and sabre than they do with each other, so it's easier to change.The foil has a thin, flexible blade with a square cross-section and a small bell guard.When fencing the foil, opponents may attack only the torso of their opponent and the groin.Attacks to the head, arms and legs are off-target and do not attract points.When fencing electric, a light, metal-mesh jacket is worn covering the target area, to allow the blade to complete a circuit with the jacket so the scoring box can register a touch.When an off-target hit is registered, the ref halts the bout and seperates the fencers before resuming.When an on-target hit is registered, a point is usually awarded and the fencers return to their starting lines to begin again.Points may only be scored by the tip of the foil and not the edge.Foil bouts attract the "Right of Way" rule.The EpeeThe epee, French for "sword", is the traditional rapier.It is flatter, heavier and less flexible than the foil and all areas of the body can be legitimately targeted.As such no jacket is worn in electric epee as you can hit your opponent anywhere you like and the touch counts as a point.Like the foil, however, the epee can only score touches with the point of the blade and not the edge.Since the hand is a legitimate target area, epees have a much larger bell guard usually covering the entire fist.Epee does not attract the "Right of Way" rule and is therefore generally faster-paced than foil, as well as allowing the scoring of simultaneous points.The SabreThe sabre is descended from the cavalry sabre, which is descended from the naval cutlass, which in turn is descended from the Turkish scimitar.As such it has always been an edged weapon and points can be scored with the edge or the tip, i.e. the entire blade.Unlike the other weapons, it has a triangular cross-section, with the sharp edge generally used for slashes (even though in sports fencing it is actually blunt) and the back edge used for parries, or blocks.The point can also be used, but as the blade is shorter than the foil or epee, this is not done as often.Sabre bouting also attracts the "Right of Way" rule.In sabre, the target area consists of the entire body above the waist.This is a throwback to mounted cavalry, when there wasn't much point attacking someone's legs whichwere flush with the side of a horse.They're difficult to hit, and you might hurt the horse, which was often seen as bad form (although in practise people targetted horses all the time - they just didn't brag about it).As such sabreurs wear a metal mesh jacket that doesn't include a groin piece, but has sleeves, as well as a special mask and gloves that conduct electricity.Right of WayTo keep sports fencing, or fencing training, a good practise for getting out there and duelling people for real hundreds of years ago, "Right of Way" was invented.This is a rule that says if you start an attack against your opponent, then your opponent cannot score a point by attacking you, even if they are successful in finishing their attack first and touching you for a point.Think about it this way: Your opponent starts attacking you.You're at risk of death.You can either parry the attack, or attack them in return. No sane person would allow the attack to continue, because the risk of death is just too high,so to keep the bout realistic, the rules say you must parry or evade the attack before you can launch an attack of your own.The upshot of this is that if your opponent attacks you, and you respond by counterattacking and even manage to bequicker and touch them first, they still get the point, and not you.This rule applies to both foil and sabre.The final arbiter of who had right of way in any particular phrase is the referee.Epee avoids this rule by claiming to be "more realistic" in that it has as few rules as possible, just like real life.Seeing as both foil and epee are sports forms of original swordplay, it's entirely up to you which one you prefer.In practice, epee ends up having very different tactics than foil, because of the rule differences.The Four Guard Positions, Attacking and FootworkThe main four guard positions you will learn are carte, sixte, septime and octave, representing the four quadrants of the body.Sixte is upper right,carte upper left, octave is lower right and septime is lower left.You will usually begin a bout by holding your sword to coversixte position, and will parry by moving from one position to another, depending on which quarter of your body your opponent attacks.An attack in foil and epee consists of extending your arm to touch your opponent with the point.If you execute your attack from a distance, then you must lunge at the same time as extending your arm.A lunge consists of stepping forward with your front foot and leaning down by bending your front knee.This serves to extend your attack further than otherwise.An attack in sabre can take the form of point attacks, as described above, or slash attacks.Because of this, sabre sometimes bears some resemblance to stick fighting.A riposte is the name of an attack that immediately follows a parry.So if your opponent attacks you and you manage to parry this attack to the side, and then launch an attack of your own, this is called a riposte.A counterattack is when you launch an attack without bothering to parry first, and this is done a lot in epee.You can do it in foil too, but Right of Way means that you had better have evaded your opponents initial attack or else you're wasting your time.Footwork is a little difficult to describe without pictures.Tradtional clubs will require you to practice footwork and moves (without a sword) for a year or two before you are allowed to use a weapon. As fencing is not very popular in Australia and clubs wish to encourage as much interest as possible, training with weapons is almost immediate.It also means the fun starts a lot earlier too.The basic stance involves pointing your front foot toward your opponent and placing your back foot at 90 degrees to the front one, with the heels in line, knees bent and feet about shoulder-width apart.Fencers will usually advance toward one another in order to threaten with their weapons, and this involves stepping foward with the front foot first, then bringing up the back foot. Feet do not usually cross.Retreating is done with the back foot moving backward first, then bringing back the front foot.Apart from being a good way to increase distance, retreating is usually done simultaneously with a parry, in order to minimise the chance of being touched.EquipmentA full set of new and at least decent quality fencing equipment will set you back about $1500, but don't let that deter you, you won't need it all straight away.Check out w ww.jgfencesport.comfor typical pricing. You should be able to borrow as much club equipment as you need to when you join, but if you like it enough to stick with it then it's best to buy the following:- a steam foil or other weapon of choice; you'll get sick of breaking the old ones at the club and annoying everyone, and besides, it's nice to have one which has a grip you've especially chosen.A new one will set you back about $100, or a second hand one from someone at the club or eBay will fetch much less.Note that very old or very rusty blades might break quickly, but might still be worthwhile if they're cheap enough.- a glove for your weapon hand; it'll fit better if you picked it yourself and be less scungy.A new one shouldn't cost more than about $45, and again, you can buy them second hand.At least second hand gloves aren't likely to break!- a mask; this is the protective head gear you wear and will cost about $280 brand new.It's expensive but you don't want to skimp where your head is concerned.Club masks usually stink, which is an incentive to buy your own.They are also absolutely necessary when you cop a hit in the face, which you shouldn't even feel when wearing a mask.You can get your mask second hand too, just make sure the stitching isn't fraying much, and there are no severe dents in the mesh.Other equipment you might want to look into getting, includes:- a breast plate; you can get them for guys but they are indispensable for girls- a box; this actually isn't standard equipment for fencers, freakishly enough. But I would recommend one anyway for blokes.You seriously do not want to get a point scored on your groin, especially if you're fencing foil or epee where it is a legitimate target area.- a protective jacket; club jackets really do tend to smell- an under plastron; a kind of half jacket you wear over your sword shoulder, under your jacket. You can get full plastrons as well, but neither are really necessary for beginners.- an electric weapon; because scoring is so much more reliable that way, and bouts are more fun and require less refereeing- an electric jacket if you fence foil or sabre; necessary with the electric weapon- an electric cable; necessary for all electric weapons- breeches; those daggy three-quarter protective pants fencers wear.Not really necessary if you're a beginner, like the under-plastron, but you'll need them when competing.- shoes; you don't have to buy fencing shoes, as they can be expensive, any decent running, cross-training or squash shoes will do- socks; they actually have proper fencing socks, but you can wear anything, even if your grandmother knitted them- a bag; when you have enough kit, you'll want something convenient to carry it around in.Although carrying a sword around in public can be a cool talking point if you're bored on the bus and want to talk to the stranger sitting next to you.However, it can be hard hailing a taxi.If you really want to fantasise about all the equipment it's possible to get, check out the Leon Paul website at w ww.leonpaul.com which also includes some cool graphically enchanced tutorials on some of the information included in this guide.ClubsMost areas, universitiesand some schools should have fencing clubs around, or you might find an instructor in the Yellow Pages. Some of the larger clubs hold beginner and intermediate level classes in various weapons, but after that you will need to find a personal instructor and find people to practice with on your own initiative, although the club can help you with both of these.Most fencers are unusually nice and the cameraderie is rampant.In fact you'll find you'll like most of your opponents when you meet them for the first time at tournaments, even while you're trying to work up enough agression to face them on the piste.Costs can include anything from $80 to $300 per year to join but this should include unlimited use of club facilities and equipment, including temporary borrows for tournaments, should you decide to enter them. Tuition can be anything from $15 to $50 per half hour.Competitions are usually not expensive, but you might be expected to help with setting up facilities.For a list of clubs you can check the Australian Fencing Federation website, w ww.ausfencing.org, or your state fencing body such as the NSW Fencing Federation, w ww.nswfencing.org.au. The website w ww.fencing.net is also a great resource for fencing information and online discussion fora.After a year or so of training you might find that you're more interested in classical fencing than sports fencing.Classicists do not usually compete, prefer to fence as if their lives depended on itand are more interested in fitness and history than fitness and competition.As such, they tend to suck in competitions, due to slowness and overcaution.Nevertheless, classical fencing is probably just as enjoyable for its historical perspectives as anything else.Buying Equipment on eBayeBay can be a good source of fencing equipment.There's not much, as the sport is not very popular in Australia, but it's there if you keep an eye out.The equipment tends to come in two categories.New or near-new stuff that someone bought and gave up on the sport pretty quickly, and really old stuff that's been sitting around for ages.You don't want to use extremely old weapons or masks, unless they are spares or emergency backups (and unless you got your 10 year old sword pretty darn cheap), but everything else is fair game as long as it's in decent nick.Most buyers are happy to tell you the history of the equipment, as well as giving sizing and condition information.Considering how expensive fencing equipment is to buy brand new, there can be some real bargains around.I have seen brand new masks go for $60 and electric foils a few months old go for $40. I bought a pair of near-new fencing shoes for $10 once!Sometimes, it's even worth buying from overseas.Anyway, in conclusion, good luck and have fun!If you decide to start fencing, I guarantee it'll be one of the most enjoyable and exhilarating things you'll ever do. Please feel free to contact me if you wish to suggest amendments or corrections to this guide.

buying a tig welder

So you want to buy a TIG welder, There are a few pitfalls for new comers to tig machines ,First ask your self what you want to weld with it,Do you want to weld Aluminium ?Tig welders come in AC/DC or DC AC/ DC tig will weld aluminium, DC will not under nornal circumstances.The reason why AC will weld aluminium has to do with theAC wave form having the ability to clean the hard layer of oxidation from the surface of the aluminium as the polarity reverses during the cycle firing electrons at the surface layer and lifting away the oxidation in the process.Welding aluminium with DC is possible but not recomended .

Mineral Makeup...EXPOSED

Well what can I say......I have triedseveral different types of mineral makeup and PURE COSMETICS ONLINE is the stand out.I tried sheer cover...but it was difficult to blend the correct colour for my skin....and another few online brands that just didn't look natural on my skin and seemed to 'slide' off and looked like i WAS wearing a mask....NOT COOL....You want to look like you AREN'T wearing foundation!Pure online has a huge range of products - foundations, concealers, colour correctors, blush, eyeliner, finishing powders etc.These are AMAZING!A little goes a long way and you buff the minerals into your skin for a flawless, natural look. You can erase large pores. Cover redness, pimples etc.I just can't tell you how fabulous this range is!I have been using it for quite a number of months now and haven't looked back.No longer do I spend ages choosing a foundation in a store. No more cream foundations, no more mess, no more pressed powders, loose powders, concealers etc........It takes me less then 2 minutes to put on my foundation.Thats to cover little zits, cover blocked pores, minimise my red areas and smooth out my skin tone on my face AND neck.In less than 2 minutes!!!! NO JOKE!My makeup regime is cut in half!Blending is simple!Powder up my brush n off i go.DONE!I highly recommend their vitamin and mineral finishing powder AND the oriental rice powder finishing powder....AMAZING stuff.This product can hold 5-7 times its weight! Meaning it can absorbe slight perspiration or face oil and your skin still looks semi-matte. GREAT FOR OILY SKINS LIKE MINE!Its silken texture is fabulous n you just want to touch your cheeks all day LOL....so nice to touch!It also is so natural looking and they send out samples before you buy from them for the first time if your not sure what colour you are.I had a great time trying everything....their blushers are DIVINE!FABULOUS FABULOUS FABULOUS!If you have trouble the ladies are more than happy to help with your queries.....I know alot about this kind of thing but mineral makeup was new to me!SO...IN the end....I now have....a blush, colour corrector (incase of a super zit),eyeliner, concealer, foundation, finishing powder (the oriental veil is GORGEOUS) and the concealer IS SUPERSONIC.....reduces redness n cover zits perfectly!I have tried alot of their other products....seriously you could go mental n buy everything......I really have to restrain myself when I visit their ebay store! I watch like 15 items for days before i slap myself n say 'dude you have them already just wait til you use it all first!'Make the switch now! I have RAVED about these products to EVERY female I KNOW! (Even some of my gay friends LOL)Check them out on ebay.com.au....Pure cosemetics online.FABULOUSLY GORGEOUSLY AMAZINGLY HONESTLY great products!You will be glad you did!I am not affiliated with them in anyway.....just a very happy customer! you can check their feedback n see!I seriously just love these products!But each to their own...if you are looking for mineral makeup do search n read up on it. Check feedback or ask for samples first and see how your skin fares.....if they don't do samples then don't buy the product....saves you spending your hard earned money n being disappointed.Some products can clog your skin if your not careful n some products ARE SO EXPENSIVE! So not worth it when there are others out there 50 times better n more affordable.Have fun with it and be free from messy creams n mousse foundations forever!

Buying Diamonds and the News Expose in Australia

Hi,My name is Mark and I am the gemmologist who works for Lachlan Birch. This is ourStore Yes I saw that TV show. Its so subjective articles like that. Yes sure we are far cheaper than the big stores but they also have huge overheads that we don't have, so they must charge more. As to valuations, this too is a huge issue. Its nearly impossible to find an independant valuer as most of them sell diamonds too!! I have had rings that we have sold valued by supposed independants for the same ring varying from worthless to twelve thousand dollars!!! So what was it worth?Had a high street Jewellery Store telling you that the stone you bought on Ebay wasn't worth setting? He was probably lying. They always do as the internet is killing their business.The problem exposed last night was how HIGH STREET jewellers can get away with such lies because they don't have the rigourous feedback system that we live under.The question of value is such a difficult thing. For me something is worth what we get for it on the day on Ebay nothing more nothing less HOWEVER we have sold one carat PK3 rings for $3700 and also for $560 so what is one worth?Insurance replacement valuation however is a very different matter and we quote twice wholesale price ie Rappaport for insurance valuation and we also state that it is for replacement in all market conditionsas the price of diamonds does go up.In the show a valuer said that $5000 worth of diamonds was worth $1000. Lets look at that. We are wholesalers so a shop must sell at 250% of cost because of their overheads. So and item from us that cost $1500 they must sell for $5000. Now if you bought that ring to me (that the jewellery shop paid $1500 for) then I would only want to pay $1000 for it from you as I as a wholesaler can buy them for $1250 anyway!! But to be fair the jewellery shops need that huge mark up to pay for their expensive stores.As to our credibility? Look at our feedback! 2000 sales and not 1 unhappy customer. What jewellery shop can say that huh? All the High Street Jewellers unhappy clients don't get a chance to leave a comment and don't have the security of Ebay.Hope this has not confused you and has put your mind at rest and encouraged you to buy from Ebay. Paranoia is a wonderful way of remaining safe in my mind. As someone that walks around the world with diamonds in his pocket all the time trust me Paranoia is a close friend who is always by my side.Kind regards,Mark Jewellery Wholesale Store

THE N95 FAKE READ BEFORE BUYING ONE

Hi ebayers im writing this guide today to worn n95 purchases of the fake n95s that are circling around ebay. ALot of people have been getting riped off so i will point out things you should look out for so i hope this helps you.REAL NOKIA N95 FAKE N951.On back cover has n95 written just under the nokia Doesn't2.The phone slides up and down allowing you to use media and keypad Slides only keypad way3.Has a 5mp camera Has a 3.5 and some have none4.Has gps Doesn't5.has wireless networking Doesn't6.Not touch screen Is touch screen7.Has sensors in phone to detect how its being held Doesn't8.Slower start up time

How to buy a Pocket Trumpet or any Trumpet

I am a professional trumpet player of 35 years and the purpose of my guide is to let students and parents know about shopping for a quality Pocket Trumpet or any Trumpet. First of all a Pocket Trumpet is a fun and unique looking instrument but basically a gimmick for advanced Trumpet players. Be aware that for the beginning student a normal Bb Trumpet is always recommended to learn on. Keep in mind: "Teacher approved," "Not a throw away," "German type," "It has a serial number!", "This is a genuine," "This is not a Cheap imitation" or "You won't find a better Instrument at this price .."etc.. means absolutely nothing on a website or anywhere else and is a red flag! Remember just because a Trumpet looks great doesn't necessarily mean its a good instrument and all that glitters is not Gold, in fact it could be pot metal a combination of Lead

Antiques : terminology and spelling

Antiques are generally interpreted to be around 100 years old at least. It is perhaps acceptable to describe items 20 and 20 years as 'vintage'.PleaseNote: Surface oxidation of metal objects is NOT patina.Gilded is spelt g-i-l-d-e-d : gilt is spelt g-i-l-t. They are not spelt guilded and guilt - the first is a term used to describe the associations of artisans and craftsmen which were calledguilds in the Middle Ages; the second may require the attention of one's psychologist, priest, wise woman, shaman or witch doctor. And, "No1", I am not perfect either, but if you want your items to be bought by careful and serious collectors you too need to be careful and scrupulous in the presentation of your treasures.If you want your buyers to come back please try to do someresearch about your items first. We appreciate it.With All Good Wishes, The Pedant.

COLLECTING GERMAN PORCELAIN- FINDING THE FINE PIECES

German porcelain has a highly deserved reputation for being among the best that is produced anywhere.It was in the early Eighteenth Century that the potters at theMeissen factory in Bavaria found how to replicate the fine whiteporcelain ( hard paste) which had been imported from China. Thecombination of this discovery and the development of delicate anddurable glazes made the works produced by Meissen highly sought after. Meissen is near Dresden, and the term "Dresden China" came to refer tothe delicate and often exquisitely modelled figures of ladies andgentlemen, often with lace adornment.The industry flourished, and over the past three centuries a number ofmakers of fine porcelain have produced beautiful fine porcelain pieces.Many of the pieces of these manufacturers can be collected quiteeasily. Some of the leading makers to look for are:Alka (or Alka-Kunst Alboth

Precious Metal, Platinum, Rhodium, Palladium, Gold

Precious Metals...Platinum, Rhodium, Palladium, Gold....propertiesThere are more precious metals used in Jewellery than Silver andGold, precious meaning expensive. They are mainly Platinum, Palladiumand Rhodium. I include the others just for the sake of completeness.This is a short guide to these metals, giving you an idea of some theirproperties, relative relationships and uses.All these metals have many industrial uses, some vital, and not just decorative.As most of you are familiar with gold, I will use gold as a standard that describes their relative properties.The values stated will vary somewhat with supply and demandfluctuations, sometimes extremely, but it should give you a RELATIVEidea in relation to gold. You can always get a current price on the netif needs be.GOLD (Au)Atomic Number: 79Density: 19.32 g/cm3....about 19 times heavier than waterMelting point: 1064CMohs hardness: 2.5...softValue: See the daily news.I will presume everyone is familiar with its uses and alloys as this is really about other precious metals.OTHER USES: Used in electronics, dental crowns and coins. Gold, themetal chosen for the supposed financial security it can provide.SILVER (Ag)Atomic Number: 47Density:10.5 g/cm3....about 1/2 the weight of gold.Melting point: 961CMohs hardness: 2.5...softValue in terms of gold: About 1/50th - 1/90th of gold. Historicallyit it used to be about 1/10th - 1/15th. So relatively inexpensiveI will presume everyone is familiar with its uses and alloys.OTHER USES: In many many chemical compounds, photographic film and paper electronics, mirrors and batteries.PLATINUM (Pt)Atomic Number: 78Density: 21.37 g/cm3...a bit heavier than goldMelting point: 1772CMohs hardness: 3.5Value in terms of gold: About 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 of gold. Substantially more expensive than gold.A FEW OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PLATINUM...Platinum became popular duringthe Art Deco period as a Jewellers metal and has been used up to thepresent. With its high melting point and hardness it is a difficultmetal to work so generally it was used on "one off" high quality handmade pieces. White metal is particularly important in diamond settingsas it does not make your white diamond look off colour as a yellow goldsetting might. The joy of old platinum jewellery is that it is usuallyin very good condition, being so hard. If you look at an old Art Decoring made of a platinum setting and gold band, the gold band may haveconsiderable wear but the setting is usually in very good condition.Jewellers may dislike working with it because of its characteristicsbut collectors of old jewellery love it. Also excellent for making theclaws that hold gemstones. A most secure metal.OTHER USES: To make crucibles, special containers, as a catalyst,in dental crowns, as an anti-tumour agent and to make standard weightsand measures. It is also combined with cobalt to produce very strongmagnets.RHODIUM (Rh)Atomic Number: 45Density: 12.44 g/cm3...Relatively lightMelting point: 1966CMohs hardness: 6Value in terms of gold: 4 to 5 times of gold.A FEW OBSERVATIONS ABOUT RHODIUM...Horrendously expensive, hard, ahigh melting point and extremely chemically inactive, almostuntarnishable. Widely used to plate white gold or silver to give it adurable and bright mirror like finish. This is a most common practiceand is NOT indicated with jewellery hallmarks. Rhodium plating is alsoused around diamond settings to make white diamonds look whiter. If youfind your white gold ring has lost it's shine and sparkle, has ayellowish tinge, it is a fairly simple matter for a jeweller to have itreplated with rhodium to bring back its original mirror finish. It isbrittle, difficult to work mechanically and too expensive to use inother forms for jewellery manufacture.OTHER USES: Used as a coating to prevent wear on high qualityscience equipment and with platinum to make thermocouples. Also used inheadlight reflectors, telephone relays and airplane spark plugs.PALLADIUM (Pd)Atomic Number: 46Density: 12.16 g/cm3...Relatively lightMelting point: 1552CMohs hardness: 4.75Value in terms of gold: 1/3 to 1/2 of goldA FEW OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PALLADIUM...A hard white metal used injewellery for settings, etc. Excellent hardness and workingcharacteristics and relative cost make this an excellent white metalfor jewellery manufacture. It makes very strong claws and settings thathold precious gems and keeps white diamonds looking white. Mixed withyellow gold to make white gold.OTHER USES: Used in alloys for telecommunication equipmentswitching systems and electrical relays, catalyst for reforming crackedpetroleum fractions, metallizing ceramics, aircraft sparkplugs.OSMIUM (Os)Atomic Number: 76Density: 22.59 g/cm3...a bit heavier than goldMelting point: 3027C...Extremely highMohs hardness: 7...Super hardValue in terms of gold: About 1/2 of gold.A FEW OBSERVATIONS ABOUT OSMIUM...Oxides reasonably easily. Used asan alloy with other precious metals to increase hardness. See Iridium.OTHER USES: Instrument pivots (such as compass needles and clockbearings), to make electric light filaments. Used for high temperaturealloys and pressure bearings.IRIDIUM (Ir)Atomic Number: 77Density: 22.56 g/cm3Melting point: 2443CMohs hardness: 6.5...Very HardValue in terms of gold: About 1/2 of gold.A FEW OBSERVATIONS ABOUT IRIDIUM...The most inert precious metal.Used in alloys with other precious metals. An Osmium + Iridium(Osmiridium) and Ruthenium alloy is used to make super hard pen nibtips.OTHER USES: To make crucible and special containers. Used to makealloys used for standard weights and measures, and heat-resistantalloys. Also used in cancer irradiation, hypodermic needles, helicopterspark plugs and as hardening agent for platinumRUTHENIUM (Ru)Atomic Number: 44Density: 12.06 g/cm3...Relatively lightMelting point: 2250CMohs hardness: 6.5...Very hardValue in terms of gold: A bit more than 1/2 of gold.Not used much in jewellery.OTHER USES: Used to harden platinum and palladium. Also used in eyetreatments, thickness meters for egg shells, fountain pen points, andelectrical contacts. Aircraft magnetos use platinum alloy with 10%ruthenium.RHENIUM (Re)Atomic Number: 75Density: 21.04g/cm3...Relatively lightMelting point: 3180C...The highest.Mohs hardness: 7...Super hard. Diamond has a hardness of 10Value in terms of gold: A bit more than 1/2 of gold.A FEW OBSERVATIONS ABOUT RHENIUM...It was the last naturallyoccurring stable element to be discovered. Not used in jewellery butyou need about 35 kilos to make a commercial jet engine at around$12,000 a kilo. OTHER USES: It is added to tungsten and molybdenum alloys and isused in refractory metal components of missiles, electronic filaments,electrical contacts, high-temperature thermocouples, oven filaments,electrodes and igniters for flash bulbs.LASTLY, I point out that I am not a jeweller and that the above guide is just that, a guide. I am a pawnbroker with 25 years experience. If you want professional advice go to a jeweller. SEE MY OTHER GUIDES FOR OTHER INFORMATION ON JEWELLERY.Vote as appropriate. 2010 Edward Vabolis

Dictionary of Costume Jewelry /

Some Jewellery TerminologyAurora borealis a rhinestone that has a metallic coating to produce sparkling colorful reflectionsBaguette a stone in the shape of a narrow rectangle.Bakelite Carbolic Acid and formaldehyde when heated, form a phenolic resin or phenol-formaldehyde which is a very early, very hard plastic discovered in 1908 by Dr. Leo BaekelandBangle A rigid bracelet often tubular and hingedBasse-taille (bas TIE yuh) An enameling technique that applies translucent enameling over an engraved, or decorated metal base.Bezel The metal around a stone that holds it in place.Bezel set A stone is set by tightly wrapping metal around it to hold it in place without the use of prongsBrilliant cut a cut that returns the greatest amount of white light to the eye. It usually has 57 or 58 facets. Used for diamonds and other transparent stones but rarely seen in rhinestones which are normally single cutBrooch An ornamental piece of jewellery which has a pin back for affixing it to clothing or hats. Usually larger in scale than the ones referred to as "pins".Bubble glass (my word) usually from Venice from the 1950s, blown glass spikey looking beads that have dripped on tiny glass balls sometimes white and sometimes in color. Cabochon A stone cut in a round or oval shape in which the top is convex shaped (not faceted).Chatelaine Originally this was a ring or hook attached at the waist or a fancy brooch, to which chains were attached, to carry useful things like keys, etc. Now, it also refers to 2 part brooches linked by a chain (such as a dog on a leash held by a lady) or to a brooch that has dangling items hung from chains.Celluloid Invented in 1869, it is a very early plastic invented in the 1800s to mimic the look of glass, tortoise shell, coral, and other jewels. Quite flammable so don't lean over a candle.Chaton a rhinestone or paste stone that has 8 cuts. Most rhinestones are chaton cut.Demi Parure see Parure belowDuette A pin and plate mechanism that hold 2 brooches. Each brooch can be worn separately or they can be put on to the mechanism and worn as one larger brooch. Usually the brooches match each other.End of Day Bakelite At the end of the day, since the hot Bakelite could not be stored overnight without hardening, several similar colors would be swirled together.French jet Black glass that is made to look like Victorian jet which is black ignite (from the coal family). Victorian jet was used during mourning. Many antique dealers call all black glass "jet". But the real French jet is black glass set in metal backings.Galalith A material first made in 1897 made of a combination of organic materials such as vegetable, milk products and natural protein.Gauntlet A bracelet that is oval and rigid and has an opening at the back.Girandole a piece of jewelry that has 3 dangling pear shaped pendantsGutta-Percha A material first made in 1840 from the bark of a Malaysian tree.Habill A cameo that has jewelry incorporated into the design. Most often it is a diamond. You can think of it as jewelry wearing jewelry.Haskellesque or Haskellish a necklace, bracelet, or brooch that looks like a Miriam Haskell piece but is actually done by a different designer who copied Haskell or who never became as famous as Haskell, or who happened to come up with similar looking designs. Some of the pieces may actually be Haskells but only because they lack certain minor criteria such as a specific type of spring ring, bead separator, hook, or earring back, it is not possible to identify them positively as such. They are still quite collectible because they look like Haskells and usually are quite beautiful.Illusion heads Normally made from gold or platinum these are little points that look like extra diamonds. They are used to further enhance a diamond watch to make it look like it has more diamonds and a higher carat weight.Intaglio A reverse carved piece. The cameo or picture is carved from behind the glass, lucite, or celluloid and shows through to the front. Integrated band A watch band that is part of the permanent watch display. The band does not come off of the watch. It is all made as one piece. Japanned metal Metal that has been treated to look black or gray usually used to give the stones a more defined and richer look. Jewels Instead of using a metal ball bearing in the works of a watch, a semi precious jewel (usually a ruby) is used instead. This insures that the ball bearing can not rust.Lavaliere, Lavalier, Lavalliere, or Lavalliere (4 spellings) Lavalliere should actually be the correct spelling (in my opinion) because the name of the mistress of Louis XIV was Louise de la valliere and she wore a single jewel (or gem stone) suspended or dropped from a chain and this is from where the name came.Marcasites Crystalline pyrites cut to look like diamonds. Made through the 1700s and 1800s. Later 1900s marasites are made from cut metal or cut glass.Millefiori Thin rods of colorful glass are heat fused and then cross sliced making cubes of intricate patterns and colors. The word literally means thousand flowers.Mine cut diamond Early diamonds were cut and then the point at the bottom of the diamond was cut off so that you could see through the diamond and it would let light in. That open bottom is called a culet. Mainly 1800s through the early 1900s.Niello A metal alloy made with sulphur to produce a black or very dark accent color.Parure A set of jewelry including a necklace, bracelet, earrings, brooch, and ring. That's considered 5 items (earrings are 1). However, most people consider a parure everything except the ring.

A Guide to Pearls

Records of commercial pearl harvesting go back 2500 years, makingpearls one of our most ancient and treasured gems. They are alsouniquely feminine gems. Attempts have been made at marketing pearls tomen, with little success. Pearls have always been and still areassociated with women, and with ladies in particular.There are almost endless variety when it comes to pearls.Pearls are available in almost unlimited colours, shapes, and sizes,qualities, and styles. This is a little general guide to help you workout at least some of the differences. Cultured Pearls Cultured pearls, whether done in saltwater or freshwater, are createdby oysters and sometimes other mollusks (including abalone, clams, andmussels), but these are shellfish that have had some help fromhumans. In brief, the shellfish has an irritant inserted in the shell,and it coats the irritant (the "seed") with secretions (known as"nacre") that become pearls. Naturally occurring pearls that are not cultured (i.e., that occurnaturally and without interference from human beings) are extremelyrare and very highly prized, as only one in several million shellfishever produce a pearl spontaneously. Freshwater PearlsFreshwater cultured pearls are farmed in fresh water and grown inpearl-producing freshwater mollusks.. The irritants used in makingfreshwater pearls are smaller than saltwater pearls, and freshwaterpearls have generally more solid pearl material (nacre). Freshwaterpearl cultivating technique usually produce twenty or more pearls inone oyster. Freshwater pearls have a special appeal since they come in a wide rangeof colours with much more variety than saltwater pearls. This isachieved by adding very small quantities of different metals to thewater on the pearl farm. The colours of freshwater pearls can be verydifferent, and many of these colors are not found in saltwater pearls.Freshwater pearls can be found in almost any shape that you canimagine: round, drop, rice, button, oval, semi-round, circle or ringed,baroque and semi-baroque. Because of its popularity, the round shape isusually the most expensive, but as always, personal preference dictatesthe shape each customer will find most beautiful.Saltwater PearlsSaltwater cultured pearls are farmed in salt water and most commonlygrown in oysters. Only one pearl is grown per oyster, so this makessaltwater pearls more expensive than freshwater pearls. Countries knownas producers of saltwater pearl are Japan, Burma, Indonesia, Thailand,Philippines, Australia, and Tahiti (Tahitian pearls are the mostexpensive and considered the finest in the world).Other saltwater mollusks such as clams and abalone are also sometimesused to produce pearls, as well, including "blister" pearls, which arecreated by attaching a bead or other seed to theshell of the mollusk (frequently an abalone) and then cutting it offthe shell after it hasbecome coated with nacre. Mabe pearls are assembled from blister pearls.Saltwater pearls do come in a variety of colours and shapes, but they're not as varied as those available in freshwater pearls.In the world of saltwater pearls, South Sea pearls some of the finestin the world, with prices to match (hundreds or thousands of dollars,dependingon the pearls and the jewellery item). Shell Pearls A good alternative to cultured pearls are the manufactured pearls knownas shell pearls. These are made from the pulverised shells of the SouthSea oyster, or may be made from the shells and mother-of-pearl of otherpearl-producing mollusks, and are sometimes known as "reconstructed"shell pearls. Good quality shell pearls are nearly flawless, tend to bebig, they're perfectly shaped, and they usually have a beautifullustre, either high-gloss or more satiny.High quality shell pearls can be difficult to tell from the real thing.Not long ago, a Japanese marketing firm reported that South Sea shellpearls were inserted into a lot of South Sea pearls as a marketingexperiment and buyers could not tell the difference.The biggest difference (other than price!) is the lack of a grittytexture. Shell pearls are smoother than pearls. This is because theyare created in a lab so the environment is cleaner than a lake or ocean.Pearl ShapesJust as pearls come in a variety of colours, they also come in avariety of shapes, including round, semi-round or near-round, button,drop or pear, oval, baroque, semi-baroque, and ringed or circle. Pearlsalso may go by names such as "rice pearls" (because they're shapedsomething like pieces of rice), "seed pearls" (because they're verysmall), "potato pearls" (because they're shaped like potatoes), and afew others. The names given to the shapes of pearls are varied andoften imaginative.Perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most expensive, and aregenerally used in necklaces, or strings of pearls.Semi-round are also used in necklaces or in pieces wherethe shape of the pearl can be disguised to look like it is a perfectlyround pearl, such as rings or brooches.Pear-shaped or drop pearls are used as pendants and are highly prized as earrings. Button pearls are like a slightly flattened round pearl and can alsomake a necklace, but are more often used in single pendants or earringswhere the back half of the pearl is covered, making it look like alarger, round pearl. Other pearl shapes are used in various ways, some of them quiteingenious and beautiful, and depend on the shape and size of the pearl.Baroque pearls are simply irregularly shaped pearls. Freshwater pearlsare most commonly baroque due to the nature and shape of the freshwatermolluscs that produce them.Other Pearls of WisdomAkoya pearls are cultured saltwater pearls. The term "Akoya" refers tothe original Japanese techniques used to farm them in oysters, but the term is now usedmore widely. Akoya pearls are still produced in Japan, but also inChina and the South Seas.Perfectly round, smooth pearls are very rare and very expensive. Mostpearls have some degree of natural irregularity on their surface or intheir shape. Many people feel that these irregularities and organicqualities enhance the beauty of the gems.The term "lustre" (or "luster") refers to the translucent, reflective quality of the surface of the pearl. Pearls absorb oils and other chemicals from the skin. While the oilscan be beneficial to the pearls, improve the lustre, and keep thepearls from drying out, chemicals (including perfume) can permanentlydamage pearls. (For more information see our Guide on Jewellery Care).

PAYPAL, EBAY AND THE NEW PAYMENT STRUCTURE!

AS OF JUNE 13th, THE ACCC HAS STOPPED/DELAYED EBAY FROM ALLOWING PAYPAL AS THE ONLY PAYMENT METHOD BECAUSE IT WAS UNFAIR TO MANY, AND IT LOOKS LIKE EBAY HAS ADMITTED DEFEAT AND WILL NO LONGER BE FIGHTING THEM, SO THE PAYPAL PAYMENT ONLY OPTION WILL NOT BE GOING AHEAD AS EBAY PLANNED!!Hey all,i thought i would write a little guide so ebay buyers and sellersknow everything they need to know about the new payment method that will be available, as ebay is not tellingall to buyers or sellersabout this.. SO IF YOU HAVE A SPARE 5 MINUTES READ ON.. As of June 17th, ebay is stating that payments only be made by Paypal, and sellers can list that they only accept Paypal as a payment method, though you as a buyer and if the seller agress can pay how you want, be it by Bank Deposit, Money Order etc ebay can not stop you paying how you want, this is what i was told by 4 ebay employees, 3 of which were Senior Account Managers and also Trust and Safety, they justprefer people to pay via Paypal so they are protected.being a Powerseller i get the privilege of being able to call ebay and discuss issues, problems etcwith them and this is what all the employees told me, i'm only making ebayers aware of what i have been able to find out from them in more detail and what may not be written on the site, EBAY IS NOT ALLOWING SELLERS TO COERCE PEOPLE INTO PAYING ANY OTHER WAY APART FROM PAYPAL OR TO PUT IN THERE LISTINGS THAT THEY ACCEPT OTHER FORMS OF PAYMENT, BUT BUYERS ARE TO KNOW IF THEY CHOOSE TO PAY ANY OTHER WAY APART FROM PAYPAL THEY ARE NOT PROTECTED! AS I WAS TOLD BY EBAY'S OWN EMPLOYEES READ THE LISTING POLICIES YOU WILL FIND THEM HERE http://pages.ebay.com.au/pdf/Misleading_DiscouragingPayments_Policy_June.pdfAND ALSO http://pages.ebay.com.au/pdf/Accepted_Payments_Policy.pdfthat explains, that i AS A SELLER CAN NOT ASKYOU TO PAY VIA ANY OTHER METHOD, IT IS ENTIRELY THE BUYERS DECISION, theysaid this new policy was targeted for buyers and to keep and attractbuyers on ebay.to which i saidwhy would a buyer stay on ebay if the only option they had was to pay via Paypal and they would not be able to pay via Paypal?and if a buyer refuses to pay me via Paypal what can i do so it doesnt affect me, the user will just leave me a negative for not going thru with thetransaction,which is why they said they can't stop people paying how they want if the seller acceptsbut if its not via Paypal they won't be protected!! ebay thinks what they are doing is the only and best option for buyers, i agree to that in some facets. thoughi believe they should educate buyers and sellers more about paymentsalot more buyers will be contacting the sellers they know, trust orhave bought from them numerous times before without problem andask them if they can buy the item outside of ebay and pay for it via Bank Deposit etc because they don't have all the information, this in turn will be costing ebay alot of money also because they won't be getting listing, final value and paypal fees, ebay is doing what it thinks is best for buyers and sellers andebay said that's a risk they are willing to take.WHY IS EBAY DOING THIS?Iwas told ebay was doing this because its safer for buyers so it protects them, i then asked WHY NOT GIVE THE BUYER THE RIGHT TO CHOOSEAND MAKE THERE OWN DECISION? they enforced that this was the only safest method that was accepted to protect against bad sellers! I was assured by Ebay that this was being done as its safer for buyers and not because it will make themMILLIONS thru paypalfees etc, and ebay would consider doing this to other countries if they can find ways of being able to do so, as far as i know its just Aussies who are going to be the SAFEST eBAY BUYERS IN THE WORLD for the time being!Though what i found really interesting was the Paypal Buyer Protection policy itself, this is from the actual Paypal Buyer Protection Terms and Conditions, you can look it up yourself its on the Paypal website i did not make it up. Go to the Buyer Complaint and Buyer Protection Policy, its under Additional Terms and Conditions, Section 5a...Availability: PayPal reserves the right to change or discontinue the PayPal Buyer Protection program for any reason, at any time and for any duration at its sole discretion. Pending claims at the time of any such discontinuance will continue to be processed under the existing program rules until a final decision is reached. So buyers you will be protected if you pay via Paypal but im not sure for how long it could be until June 18th 2008or it could be indefinitely. I don't understand why Paypal and Ebay would want to discontinue something which was the main reason they changed the Ebay payment structure for? Surely they could have just put that Paypal reserves the right to changesome details of thePaypal Buyer Protection, why would they want to totally remove it?HOW COME I PAY VIA CASH ORBANK CHEQUE IF I PICKAN ITEM UP?i would say itsbecause ebay believes its safe you can see exactly what your buying and take it etc, and also ebay have to put that as an option, if ebay didnt put this then the ACCC would stop ebay frommakingsellers put in there listingsthatthey can only pay via Paypal (thanks to the ACCC for explaining that to me) as it would be against thelaw!PAYPAL PAYMENTS WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW?now ebay says paypal payments are also very quick, THIS IS TRUE ONLY IF YOU PAY USING YOUR CREDIT CARD or money that you already have in your paypal account! IF YOU GET PAYPAL TO TAKE MONEY OUT OF YOUR BANK ACCOUNT IT WILL TAKE 4-7 WORKING DAYS FOR THE PAYMENT TO CLEAR INTO THE SELLERS ACCOUNT, SO EXPECT TO WAIT AN EXTRA WEEK OR SO BEFORE THESELLER GETS THE PAYMENT, ONCE THE SELLER GETS THE MONEY THEY CAN THEN SEND THE ITEM! WHY IT TAKES SOOOOOO LONG I DON'T KNOW, AS PAYMENTS MADE FROM BANK ACCOUNT TO ANOTHER BANK ACCOUNTCLEARSOVERNIGHT OR 48 HOURS MAX!!HOW CAN I AVOID IT FROM TAKING A WEEK TO CLEAR?well you will have to get yourself a credit card or you will have to pre-load your paypal account with funds, pre-loading usually takes anywhere from 3-5 workingdays to go into your account, though make sure its extra money or you have planned a weekahead and know what it is that you want to buy as the money will just sit in your Paypal account unless you withdraw it back into your account. SO, BEST OPTION IF PAYING BY PAYPAL USE YOUR CREDIT CARD!WHAT DO I THINK OF THIS NEW PAYMENT STRUCTURE?I'm not thathugely upset what ebay is doing even though i am a seller and it affects us the most, ebay does what it thinks is safer or makes them more money,I actually think its a really good ideaif your a buyer andONLY IF YOU PAY USING YOUR CREDIT CARD.... though the extra fees etc will affect mostsellers which ebay should have taken into consideration, i'm not too worried about the extra feesi can claim Paypal and Ebay fees back on Taxas business expensesso i don't care either way if i get the extra money i pay back now or in a years time, but not all buyers can afford that luxury. ebayers should be aware of all details!! Its good because CREDIT CARD payments are usually received instantly, i personally want to get payment as quick as possible so i can send the item out as quick as possible, NOW I MAY HAVE TO WAIT UP TO 1 WEEK BEFORE I CAN SEND SOMEONES ITEM, SO BUYERS I WILL STRESS AGAIN IF YOU GET MONEY TAKEN OUT OF YOUR BANK ACCOUNT BY PAYPAL BE PREPARED TO WAIT UP TO 1 WEEK FOR AN ITEM TO BE SENT!! which sucks because i have limited room on how much i can store AND I KNOW BUYERS WANT THERE ITEMS ASAP!! though buyers are protected which i think is a good thing and ebay,paypal will make millions upon millions of dollars profit, sosurely in the future they will put some of themillionsthey make from this idea back to the sellers and reduce ebay and paypal fees for us!! TO ROUND UP1. GET A CREDIT CARD TO PAY VIA PAYPAL AS ITS MUCH QUICKER2. SELLERS DON'T COERCE BUYERS TO PAYANY OTHER WAY APART FROM PAYPALOR PUT IN YOUR LISTING YOU ACCEPT OTHER FORMS OF PAYMENT AS EBAY WILL BE ENFORCING VERY HARSHLY!3. BUYERS IF YOU CAN'T PAY VIA PAYPAL CONTACT THE SELLER AND SEE IF THEY YOU CAN ARRANGE SOMETHING WITH THEM, THOUGH KNOW THAT BY DOING SOWILL PUT YOU AT RISK IF A PROBLEM ARISES!4. FOR NOW, BUYERS YOU ARE PROTECTED FROM BAD SELLERS IF YOU PAY VIA PAYPAL, THOUGH PAYPAL AND EBAY CAN REMOVE THE BUYER PROTECTION POLICY AT ANYTIME ACCORDING TO THEIR POLICY, SO CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY THAT YOU ARE STILL COVERED!5. BE PREPARED TO WAIT 1 WEEK IF YOU PAY USING PAYPAL WITH MONEY TAKEN OUT OF YOUR BANK ACCOUNT!6. ALSO BE PREPARED TO PAY A LITTLE EXTRA FOR THE ITEM THAT YOU WANT BECAUSE OF THE EXTRA FEES THAT ARE NOW INVOLVED SOME BUYERS MAY PUT THERE PRICES UP TO COVER THIS!PLEASE VOTE YES IF YOU FOUND THIS GUIDE USEFUL!!